About Salzburg Sideways

This is a site under construction, but here is what to expect. An extraordinary exploration of Salzburg – the city and the province of Austria of the same name – and its people.

Salzburg - Altstadt and Festung Hohensalzburg on Left Bank of the river Salzach

Salzburg Altstadt and Festung Hohensalzburg

As the name suggests, the main intent of Salzburg Sideways is to take a look at the different sides of Salzburg: its side roads and alleys, its customs and manners, and its people. And not only a sideways look at the city, but also of Land Salzburg, the Province of Austria. There are many small towns, landmarks and out of the way places that deserve to be explored for their qualities and character.

I’ll also take side tours to into the Salzkammergut, the Lake District some call the tenth province of Austria. Parts of the Salzkammergut belong to Salzburg, but significant portions of it also lie in Upper Austria, and one of my favorite parts of the Lake District, the Ausseer Land,  lies in Styria. Its part of the fabric that lends the countryside of Salzburg its charm.

Salzburg is full of captivating places and landmarks. Its history is riddled with fascinating characters, from enigmatic Archbishops to people such as the Hundsgräfin (Dog Countess/Baroness of Dogs) of Salzburg, surely one of the most colorful characters that ever walked this earth.

Many of these places and characters escape the attention of visitors who spend a day or two in Salzburg and then move on. They never get a real sense of place, they only encounter a carefully constructed face offered to tourists, and more’s the pity.

I’d like to penetrate this facade, the mythos,  Salzburg presents to visitors, although it seems many tourists are satisfied with it.  Many come here because of the romance of the Sound of Music, the spectacular landscapes, or to see the town where Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born, and that’s all they want.  Salzburg’s tourist industry caters to it and it becomes a self reinforcing mechanism to the point where Salzburg’s more interesting jewels go by the wayside. I intend penetrate this facade when I can and enter from the side, so to speak, and I hope to take you with me on this little detour through the town and the country.

Naturally I’ll cover all of the conventional highlights, too, it’s almost an obligation. Also, I’d be remiss not to take you on an imaginary tour of Hellbrunn, the pleasure palace of an Archbishop who was a living contradiction of himself. Or the Mirabell Gardens and Palace, a legacy to an illegitimate but public love affair that bore 15 children – to an Archbishop. I’ll try to make it interesting.

Please check back from time to time and expect to be entranced in romance and story, and perhaps get a better appreciation of one of my favorite places in the world, Salzburg.

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